95 trans am LT1

[jmichael0522]

I have a 95 Trans Am that is running rough. Some times it idles around 500 rpms and sometimes it's around 1200 rpms. I just bought I a few weeks ago and it seemed to run good until I had a heater hose spring a leak. Since then when taking off, it kind of sputters then it goes. A couple of times it has died on me while driving and I let off the gas. The check engine lite has come on a couple of times but is not currently on. Along with the problem came the problem of shifting issues. One day I was driving it to the store and it wouldn't shift. Now it will shift, but when you try to use the passing gear, it will not down shift. Sometimes when you try to get it to kick down, it cuts out really bad until you let off the accelerator. I am installing a cold air intake on it this weekend, because the current hose is tore where it fits around the throttle body. I feel like it may be a problem with the distributor and coil. As I hear this is a common problem with the LT1's. But I don't see how this would affect the shifting problem. The engine was rebuilt in 09, and according to the mileage on the receipts from the engine rebuild, it only has about 20k to 25K miles on it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am eager to get this car running correctly since I bought it for my 16 year old son for his first car. I only have until July to get it right for him.

 

[melsg5]

You will have to have the computer scanned for either current codes when the light is on or codes in history if the light goes off. If the leaking hose caused anything electrical nearby to get wet you could start looking for corroded connections or grounds. You could also check fuel pressure and determine if it needs a new fuel filter, air filter, and plugs.

 

[EaOutlaw]

It sounds like you may have a few problems,
First you mentioned changing out to a cold air intake, because of a tear in the factory air intake. if this leak is after the Mass air flow sensor this will cause your car to run horribly.

Secondly the coolant leak may have sprayed down the distributor cap.

Remove and inspect this cap for moisture. check the sealing o-ring while your at it.

Good luck with the car I look forward to seeing pictures of it.

 

[jmichael0522]

I think the fuel pump went out today. I drove it to have it scanned and the to have the fuel pressure checked, and while I was putting the scanner on it, it started idle down to very low rpm's and finally died. I could not get it to start back up. the fuel pressure check showed 40psi. I figured that this will be to low for the car to run. I did check the voltage to the ignition control module in which the A probe showed 12v and while cranking the engine over the B probe showed 2v. It showed that any thing between 1v-4v was a good reading. So at this point, I am with a car that wont start. Dose any one know the proper name for the cable I will need to hook it up to a computer to scan the history for codes? The OBDII scanner I used today did nothing. It scanned, but simply said no readings. Also what is the best down load to use once I do get the proper cable to scan the history for codes?

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[EaOutlaw]

Your car cannot be scanned with a obd2 scanner http://www.obdii.com/connector.html

http://www.aldlcable.com/

 

[melsg5]

Typically a fuel pump fails by not running at all. Have you checked for a clogged fuel filter?

 

[jmichael0522]

No I haven't yet. It just quit on me last night. I know the sending unit wasn't working, so I think it just crapped out on me. It was holding 40 PSI until it died. It acted like it was running out of fuel then died. I put 5 gallons in to see if it would start just to make sure it wasn't completely out since the fuel gauge doesn't work and it would not even attempt to start.

 

[melsg5]

i thought it read 40 psi right now when you turn the key to run. So it does sound like you lost the pump. If you have been running it close to empty the pump overheats and fails.

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[jmichael0522]

Yeah I hope that's all it is. The lady I bought it from may have ran it low a lot. I was trying to get it close to empty so I could change it out since the fuel gauge didn't work. I just hope it runs good after this. And that this is the only problem with it.

 

[EaOutlaw]

From Auto Zone site just so you know what you will be doing if it is the pump.

this siphon works great normally can be picke dup at most auto parts stores Pep Boys AZ etc
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EH0ORI?keywords=rattle siphon&qid=1457759054&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1


http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152800b86d0

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figure 1

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Drain the fuel from the tank into an approved container. Use a hand-operated pump to drain the fuel through the filler neck.
Safely raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the fuel filler neck shield.
For 1993-94 vehicles, remove the rear axle assembly at this time.
Remove the rear portion of the exhaust system (pipe and muffler).
Remove the exhaust heat shield.
For 1995-98 vehicles, remove the rear axle assembly at this time.
Clean all the fuel pipes and hoses in the surrounding areas to prevent contamination of the fuel system.
Disconnect the rear fuel feed, fuel return, vapor, and vent hoses at the fuel sender assembly.
Separate the electrical connection.
With the aid of an assistant, support the fuel tank.
Remove the fuel tank strap front attaching bolts. Do not bend the straps as this will damage them.
Remove the tank straps and the fuel tank.



Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Fig. 1: Fuel tank insulators and tank mounting

To install:
Hook the rear end of the fuel tank straps into the underbody bracket.
With the aid of an assistant, position and support the fuel tank with the straps. Loosely install the front fuel tank attaching bolts.
Engage the electrical connection.
Connect the fuel hoses and lines separated during removal.
Install the muffler heat shield and the exhaust system.
Install the rear axle and the fuel filler neck shield.
Lower the vehicle.
Add fuel and install the filler cap.
Connect the negative battery cable.
With the engine off, turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds, then turn it to the OFF position for 10 seconds. Again turn it to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.

 

[Zimgxp]

Did coolant leak on the opti spark?