I have an 03 Montana and it just started this problem recently. I have C1232 code meaning LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted but my troubles are in the right side. The vehicle vibrates when at high speeds (60mph +) and on right turns. If I let off the gas the vibration stops. If I hit a bump in the road the vehicle vibrates. Now, the wheel hubs were replaced two years ago. The lower control arm on the passenger side was replaced last year. The tires are all brand new. I rotated the tires the other day to see if the vibration changed. It didn't. I checked the motor mounts and they didn't look broken. When I grab the tire (jacked up) at 6 and 12, I get no movement and it's solid. But when I grab the wheel at 3 and 9 it has some play. When I removed the tire and looked at the knuckle while I was moving it, I saw some play in the knuckle. Would the outer tie rod end be faulty? Or maybe the inner? I tried feeling the inner through the boot but it didn't move in or out. I read other posts and people are saying to change the cv joint or half shaft. Any ideas?
C1232 and vibration on right turn and high speeds
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EaOutlaw
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Hi does this vehicle have a lot of miles racked up on it?
The code is for a speed sensor and should be diagnosed and repaired, yet has noting to do with the issues your experiencing.
Any tie rod end inner or outer that has play needs to be replaced. when you are wiggling the tire from the 3 and 9 position if you see play at the outer tie rod end it should be replaced.
If the play is coming from the inner tie rod end same deal replace the inner.
This being said if your vehicle has a lot of miles and all these parts are original, if you have one bad outer tie rod end replace both outer tie rod ends.
If you have a bad inner tie rod end replace all the inner and outer tie rod ends.
There is no sense wasting money on a 4 wheel alignment to have to redo it in the near future.
Looking at the engine mounts will not tell you much, open the hood have someone apply the parking brake and hold the brake down start the engine and put the car in gear while your watching from the side.
See if the engine lurches, if not have them apply a little throttle while still holding the brakes down does the engine move a lot?
If so you have some worn and torn mounts. if not do the same thing in reverse does the engine move a lot?
If the engine doesn't move much they could still be worn, with the vehicle in park and the engine running feel the body is there a lot of vibrations?
If so get a block of wood and a floor jack and stick the jack under the engine oil pan with the block of wood to protect the oil pan, jack up the engine slightly while the engine is running does it smooth out?
If so the mounts are collapsed and worn and should be replaced.
Outer CV joints normally get worn CV boots that split then spit out all the grease, if this goes long enough the joint will start to go bad, this is easy to tell because the joints will click or make noise while going around corners.
Inner joints rarely go bad just because they only go up and down they do not have to turn like the outer ones.
However they can go bad if a boot splits and goes unnoticed. and yes they could cause a vibration, but they would have been bad for a long time to get to the point where they vibrate.
Normally if you have a split boot it is best to remove the axle and rebuild both joints with new boots and new grease taking the entire joint apart down to the bearings cleaning them perfectly and inspecting all the parts if any of the bearings or cages joint housing are severely worn, replace the joint or the entire axle depending on the cost.
the front strut mounts could also be a problem for your since you claim the car vibrates going over bumps.
Normally what happens on any front wheel drive vehicle with a lot of miles that has not been maintained correctly is the front and rear struts will wear out somewhere around 80 to 100K along with worn springs which will cause the suspension to travel more than it used to.
This extra travel and no resistant to pot holes and bumps will put extra wear and tear on your cv joints and boots.
the worn engine mounts allowing the engine and transaxle to flop around under the hood will also put extra stress on the axles also.
In the old days we used to recommend replacing shocks and stuts from factory at about 50K then aftermarkets upgraded units would be good for 100K or so.
On your car I am not sure if they are better made than when i used to work on these cars they may go longer.
But I venture to say most people do not replace them in the life of their car.
I do not know for sure But if I had to guess your car has a lot of miles and has missed many opportunities to perform preventive maintenance on the vehicle and suspension.
This has led up to the many symptoms your vehicle has.
Yet if I am right all is not lost if you shop around getting the needed parts to restore your ride and install them in a timely manor.
The code is for a speed sensor and should be diagnosed and repaired, yet has noting to do with the issues your experiencing.
Any tie rod end inner or outer that has play needs to be replaced. when you are wiggling the tire from the 3 and 9 position if you see play at the outer tie rod end it should be replaced.
If the play is coming from the inner tie rod end same deal replace the inner.
This being said if your vehicle has a lot of miles and all these parts are original, if you have one bad outer tie rod end replace both outer tie rod ends.
If you have a bad inner tie rod end replace all the inner and outer tie rod ends.
There is no sense wasting money on a 4 wheel alignment to have to redo it in the near future.
Looking at the engine mounts will not tell you much, open the hood have someone apply the parking brake and hold the brake down start the engine and put the car in gear while your watching from the side.
See if the engine lurches, if not have them apply a little throttle while still holding the brakes down does the engine move a lot?
If so you have some worn and torn mounts. if not do the same thing in reverse does the engine move a lot?
If the engine doesn't move much they could still be worn, with the vehicle in park and the engine running feel the body is there a lot of vibrations?
If so get a block of wood and a floor jack and stick the jack under the engine oil pan with the block of wood to protect the oil pan, jack up the engine slightly while the engine is running does it smooth out?
If so the mounts are collapsed and worn and should be replaced.
Outer CV joints normally get worn CV boots that split then spit out all the grease, if this goes long enough the joint will start to go bad, this is easy to tell because the joints will click or make noise while going around corners.
Inner joints rarely go bad just because they only go up and down they do not have to turn like the outer ones.
However they can go bad if a boot splits and goes unnoticed. and yes they could cause a vibration, but they would have been bad for a long time to get to the point where they vibrate.
Normally if you have a split boot it is best to remove the axle and rebuild both joints with new boots and new grease taking the entire joint apart down to the bearings cleaning them perfectly and inspecting all the parts if any of the bearings or cages joint housing are severely worn, replace the joint or the entire axle depending on the cost.
the front strut mounts could also be a problem for your since you claim the car vibrates going over bumps.
Normally what happens on any front wheel drive vehicle with a lot of miles that has not been maintained correctly is the front and rear struts will wear out somewhere around 80 to 100K along with worn springs which will cause the suspension to travel more than it used to.
This extra travel and no resistant to pot holes and bumps will put extra wear and tear on your cv joints and boots.
the worn engine mounts allowing the engine and transaxle to flop around under the hood will also put extra stress on the axles also.
In the old days we used to recommend replacing shocks and stuts from factory at about 50K then aftermarkets upgraded units would be good for 100K or so.
On your car I am not sure if they are better made than when i used to work on these cars they may go longer.
But I venture to say most people do not replace them in the life of their car.
I do not know for sure But if I had to guess your car has a lot of miles and has missed many opportunities to perform preventive maintenance on the vehicle and suspension.
This has led up to the many symptoms your vehicle has.
Yet if I am right all is not lost if you shop around getting the needed parts to restore your ride and install them in a timely manor.
What a great explanation! Thank you so much. The vehicle has a ton of miles on it. 192,000 miles. I priced out parts on Advanced Discount and Rock Auto. Rock Auto seems to have better products and better prices too.
As for vibrations, it's only at higher speeds. Nothing on idle and it drives fine at low speeds, even turning. I'll get the neighbor to check the motor mounts for me tomorrow. The boots all look good with no rips or grease coming out of them. I sent some videos to a mechanic friend and he said there is too much movement in the outer tie rod at the knuckle. But he thinks there could be more wrong. I might do what you suggest and change all 4 tie rods. Shipped is only $28.06 for everything from Rock Auto. Anything else I should look for?
As for vibrations, it's only at higher speeds. Nothing on idle and it drives fine at low speeds, even turning. I'll get the neighbor to check the motor mounts for me tomorrow. The boots all look good with no rips or grease coming out of them. I sent some videos to a mechanic friend and he said there is too much movement in the outer tie rod at the knuckle. But he thinks there could be more wrong. I might do what you suggest and change all 4 tie rods. Shipped is only $28.06 for everything from Rock Auto. Anything else I should look for?
EaOutlaw
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Vibrations at higher speeds like 55 MPH I would look for out of balance wheels just because you rotated them doesn't mean all four are not out of balance. ( inexpensive tires are sometimes hard to balance correctly )
Look for rims with heavy weights or many of them. some places and tire techs do not take the time to look the rim over for excessive build up of road dirt and grime.
the weight of a single dime is enough to cause a slight vibration, so added weight where it doesn't belong matters.
If you look at the inside of the rims are they fairly clean? if not take them off one at a time. check the air pressure. clean the rims really well make sure to do what ever is necessary to get down to just the rim leaving that paint or powder coating alone.
You just want to remove anything that is adding weight to the wheel assembly. take the time to pluck out all the little stones embedded in the tires. and remove all the wheel weights.
Once you get the tires and rims inflated and clean off all debris and rocks plus weights bring the car in and have a road force variation balance done to all four tires.
If they do the job properly you should not have a large amount of weight in any one position and you will never have two weights on one side of the rim counter balancing each other.
If the tire has a heavy spot in it the tech should deflate the tire break the beads loose and spin the tire on the rim then re inflate the tire and re balance the tire and wheel.
much of your vibration could be coming from worn tie rod ends, however a poor balance job will make the vibrations feel worse.
once you get a 4 wheel alignment after replacing all of your worn suspension parts, Struts, strut mounts, tie rod ends, rack mount bushings if they apply to your vehicle.
Have the shop provide you with a before and after print out of the alignment.
You will want a shop that specializes in alignments Locally we have Weber Wheel alignment, they always do a top notch job.
Places like Tire kingdom, Firestone, Good year Etc may have good machines and some well trained techs but most of these techs are under paid and just do not care.
The will just set the toe and go leaving any other alignment issues untouched.
Pay the extra money and get a good alignment by a professional that is being paid well to do their job.
A good 4 wheel alignment will be done with all four wheels on unlocked pads on a alignment machine.
You can tell when they are screwing you over when they only unlock the front pads.
Most of the time these hacks will not even do a camber and caster sweep. to see if these important angles are with in tolerance.
They should also check ride height at all four corners yet only a good alignment shop knows or thinks about doing this.
the main thing is your car has many miles on it and many little problems here and there I am sure are well worn and needs attention.
I couldn't possibly tell you about them all, however I recommend finding a shop you trust go over the entire car front to rear top to bottom inspecting every single major point of this vehicle and writing a list of things that need your attention and or money.
Then get a second inspection from another source and compare their list.
Inspect each item for yourself to see who is being honest and who is being lazy and most important who is the crook wanting to steal your money.
Once you have this list you will be armed with information and a good idea of what your vehicle really needs. this way you can make a informed decision to repair the car or not repair the car.
If you repair it you can make a priority list safety items first, preventive maintenance next comfort items last.
Its important to spend the money on the inspections or do the inspections yourself before work begins. that last thing you want is to empty your wallet on parts for your vehicle drive it down the road to have a timing belt or chain go bad and destroy your engine causing you to to rethink keeping this vehicle after you spent all this time and money.
Look for rims with heavy weights or many of them. some places and tire techs do not take the time to look the rim over for excessive build up of road dirt and grime.
the weight of a single dime is enough to cause a slight vibration, so added weight where it doesn't belong matters.
If you look at the inside of the rims are they fairly clean? if not take them off one at a time. check the air pressure. clean the rims really well make sure to do what ever is necessary to get down to just the rim leaving that paint or powder coating alone.
You just want to remove anything that is adding weight to the wheel assembly. take the time to pluck out all the little stones embedded in the tires. and remove all the wheel weights.
Once you get the tires and rims inflated and clean off all debris and rocks plus weights bring the car in and have a road force variation balance done to all four tires.
If they do the job properly you should not have a large amount of weight in any one position and you will never have two weights on one side of the rim counter balancing each other.
If the tire has a heavy spot in it the tech should deflate the tire break the beads loose and spin the tire on the rim then re inflate the tire and re balance the tire and wheel.
much of your vibration could be coming from worn tie rod ends, however a poor balance job will make the vibrations feel worse.
once you get a 4 wheel alignment after replacing all of your worn suspension parts, Struts, strut mounts, tie rod ends, rack mount bushings if they apply to your vehicle.
Have the shop provide you with a before and after print out of the alignment.
You will want a shop that specializes in alignments Locally we have Weber Wheel alignment, they always do a top notch job.
Places like Tire kingdom, Firestone, Good year Etc may have good machines and some well trained techs but most of these techs are under paid and just do not care.
The will just set the toe and go leaving any other alignment issues untouched.
Pay the extra money and get a good alignment by a professional that is being paid well to do their job.
A good 4 wheel alignment will be done with all four wheels on unlocked pads on a alignment machine.
You can tell when they are screwing you over when they only unlock the front pads.
Most of the time these hacks will not even do a camber and caster sweep. to see if these important angles are with in tolerance.
They should also check ride height at all four corners yet only a good alignment shop knows or thinks about doing this.
the main thing is your car has many miles on it and many little problems here and there I am sure are well worn and needs attention.
I couldn't possibly tell you about them all, however I recommend finding a shop you trust go over the entire car front to rear top to bottom inspecting every single major point of this vehicle and writing a list of things that need your attention and or money.
Then get a second inspection from another source and compare their list.
Inspect each item for yourself to see who is being honest and who is being lazy and most important who is the crook wanting to steal your money.
Once you have this list you will be armed with information and a good idea of what your vehicle really needs. this way you can make a informed decision to repair the car or not repair the car.
If you repair it you can make a priority list safety items first, preventive maintenance next comfort items last.
Its important to spend the money on the inspections or do the inspections yourself before work begins. that last thing you want is to empty your wallet on parts for your vehicle drive it down the road to have a timing belt or chain go bad and destroy your engine causing you to to rethink keeping this vehicle after you spent all this time and money.
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Thanks for the great reply again! I check movement with the neighbor today. No movement in the motor at all. Checked the mounts from underneath and saw no issues. I re-torqued the bolts on the right side. The outer tie rod was under tightened a little. Tightened it up and the shake is there but not near as bad. Now I get shake over 70mph and on acceleration on right turns. Waiting for parts from Rock Auto. Once installed I am going to get an alignment and the wheels balanced. Will update my findings.
EaOutlaw
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If the cv joint boots are in good condition, I imagine these axles have been serviced or replaced at one point. there may be a issue with them so just keep them in mind but do nothing with them for now.
When you say there is shake when accelerating on right turns, are you at speed making a gradual turn from lane to lane?
Or is the shaking happening from a dead stop accelerating around a corner from a traffic light?
Where do you feel this shaking, is it coming from the steering wheel or the seat ?
Have you checked the rear wheels for slop or play in the bearings.
Is there a noise associated with the shake? Do you have good hearing?
You say you have new or newer tires, what did the old tires look like?
Were they worn severely on one side of the tire? were they chopped up?
Do you notice any chopping or weird tread wear developing on the new tires?
When you say there is shake when accelerating on right turns, are you at speed making a gradual turn from lane to lane?
Or is the shaking happening from a dead stop accelerating around a corner from a traffic light?
Where do you feel this shaking, is it coming from the steering wheel or the seat ?
Have you checked the rear wheels for slop or play in the bearings.
Is there a noise associated with the shake? Do you have good hearing?
You say you have new or newer tires, what did the old tires look like?
Were they worn severely on one side of the tire? were they chopped up?
Do you notice any chopping or weird tread wear developing on the new tires?
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Shaking is on high speeds and accelerating on right corners. I replaced the right outer tie rod end today and no change, just tighter steering. But I looked at all the mounts and I think I found a major problem. Looks like the transmission mount is broken or at least worn out. I am going to do the pry bar test on both the transmission mount and the engine mount tomorrow. I'll attach a picture and see what you think. Input would be greatly appreciated.
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EaOutlaw
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the mount looks dry rotted and possibly torn plus collapsed some, it is hard to tell but the inner cv boot looks like it has tossed out all of it grease as well.
Perhaps you can take good pictures of all the CV boots and all the engine and transmission mounts as well.
Looking at the picture you provided, it looks like you have a transmission mount attached to a bracket. one bolt appears to be loose and one perhaps missing. it is hard to tell from my computer screen but its worth a peek while your checking the mount.
If I remember correctly with a new fresh mount in place the center safety stud on the mount should not have that much clearance. that stud keeps the trans from moving around too much once the mount tears completely.
inspect that bracket and take better pictures.
BTW what is high speed? explain in MPH please.
Perhaps you can take good pictures of all the CV boots and all the engine and transmission mounts as well.
Looking at the picture you provided, it looks like you have a transmission mount attached to a bracket. one bolt appears to be loose and one perhaps missing. it is hard to tell from my computer screen but its worth a peek while your checking the mount.
If I remember correctly with a new fresh mount in place the center safety stud on the mount should not have that much clearance. that stud keeps the trans from moving around too much once the mount tears completely.
inspect that bracket and take better pictures.
BTW what is high speed? explain in MPH please.
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Thanks again for the quick reply. Any acceleration over 70mph is when it shakes pretty bad. When I'm turning right, I could be going 25mph and it vibrates. Am I correct in this statement that if there is a vibration on the passenger side, it's coming from the drivers side due to the weight shifting while driving? I'll take better pictures tomorrow. I'm going inspect that cv boot better and lift the tranny and motor to check the mounts properly.
EaOutlaw
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I am thinking from your description that you have some bad cv joints.
The inner can cause vibrations under acceleration. normally if they get that bad it will clunk some when you put it into gear.
The outer joints normally click around corners when they go bad. if they are worn enough they could bind up causing a vibration or shaking also.
It the outer CV joints if worn enough would feel like the steering wheel is moving or shaking back and forth when cornering.
The clicking sound if there would be more noticeable on sharp corners.
If your unsure go to a open parking lot from a dead stop crank the steering wheel all the way to one side then accelerate up to 10-15 mph pretty fast if they are bad you should hear something.
If the mounts are really worn and have some movement perhaps the extra slack is absorbing the play in the cv joint when you put the transmission in drive or reverse.
where do you feel the vibration? in the steering wheel or in the seat. or does the entire vehicle shake?
take the time to clean all the cv boots and inspect them close if they are dry rotted split or not secure to the joint you will need to take each axle out removing the boots and take each cv joint apart to down to the bearing and cages etc for a close exam and at minimum a clean and re grease but most likely replacement.
I will give you more information but lets start with some good pictures
The inner can cause vibrations under acceleration. normally if they get that bad it will clunk some when you put it into gear.
The outer joints normally click around corners when they go bad. if they are worn enough they could bind up causing a vibration or shaking also.
It the outer CV joints if worn enough would feel like the steering wheel is moving or shaking back and forth when cornering.
The clicking sound if there would be more noticeable on sharp corners.
If your unsure go to a open parking lot from a dead stop crank the steering wheel all the way to one side then accelerate up to 10-15 mph pretty fast if they are bad you should hear something.
If the mounts are really worn and have some movement perhaps the extra slack is absorbing the play in the cv joint when you put the transmission in drive or reverse.
where do you feel the vibration? in the steering wheel or in the seat. or does the entire vehicle shake?
take the time to clean all the cv boots and inspect them close if they are dry rotted split or not secure to the joint you will need to take each axle out removing the boots and take each cv joint apart to down to the bearing and cages etc for a close exam and at minimum a clean and re grease but most likely replacement.
I will give you more information but lets start with some good pictures
Great reply as usual. I have a degreaser. I'll spray the boot and area in the morning and get better pictures. I'll take a picture of the mounts with the motor lifted a little on board jacked up. I'm going to take a drive right now to see if I get a clunk or noise on a sharp right or left turn quick acceleration. The whole vehicle vibrates. I feel it in the floor and the steering wheel and in the seats.
I just came back from a ride.
Turning right 30mph it vibrates. Turning left no vibration. From stop to 20mph with the wheel cranked left or right, no noises, no vibrations, no clicks, and no noise at all. No noise from stop in reverse either. Quiet as a church mouse.
It's my dad's vehicle. I drove it from Manitoba to Florida, about 2100 miles. We had put 4 new tires on it before I left. It started vibrating as we were entering Florida. I rotated the tires when I arrived and the vibration didnt follow the tire rotation or go away. I checked and it doesn't look like a weight fell off. Maybe a tire could be out of balance?
Turning right 30mph it vibrates. Turning left no vibration. From stop to 20mph with the wheel cranked left or right, no noises, no vibrations, no clicks, and no noise at all. No noise from stop in reverse either. Quiet as a church mouse.
It's my dad's vehicle. I drove it from Manitoba to Florida, about 2100 miles. We had put 4 new tires on it before I left. It started vibrating as we were entering Florida. I rotated the tires when I arrived and the vibration didnt follow the tire rotation or go away. I checked and it doesn't look like a weight fell off. Maybe a tire could be out of balance?
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if a tire was out of balance it would show up at around 55 MPH and go away or become less noticeable at higher speeds.
from your last description it is starting to sound like the Outer cv joints are good. I still am unsure about the inner joints.
if the engine mounts and transmission mounts were collapsed this would cause any engine vibrations to be felt through the entire car.
Is the engine running good? nice a smooth with plenty of power ( no hesitation ) ?
while your looking the car over jack up the car and put it on 4 jack stands, with the car in neutral double check all four wheels for play or slop like you did earlier and spin each tire to check for a tire that may be out of round.
with the car in the air, look the entire suspension over front and rear, look for anything from worn bushings to cracked welds, broken suspension parts.
I worked on a Honda Civic years ago that had a weird vibration problem, I found a left rear suspension part snapped in half. the whole time I would have bet good money that the problem was coming from the front so it was desperation and luck that made me look out back.
Your vibration or shaking qualifies as weird, with the amount of miles you have, you have to look closer at your vehicle than you normally would.
if you haven't double check all the lugs nuts on the wheels. and look at the wheels closely look for and cracks or damage.
once you have the car in the air try and move the front upper strut mounts if you get no play jack up the lower control arm slightly and check again.
jack it up just enough to support some of the weight, enough to compress the spring slightly but not enough to lift the car off the jack stand.
also I think I asked earlier, are all four tires wearing evenly? is there any signs of chopping or cupping or weird wear to any of the tires?
from your last description it is starting to sound like the Outer cv joints are good. I still am unsure about the inner joints.
if the engine mounts and transmission mounts were collapsed this would cause any engine vibrations to be felt through the entire car.
Is the engine running good? nice a smooth with plenty of power ( no hesitation ) ?
while your looking the car over jack up the car and put it on 4 jack stands, with the car in neutral double check all four wheels for play or slop like you did earlier and spin each tire to check for a tire that may be out of round.
with the car in the air, look the entire suspension over front and rear, look for anything from worn bushings to cracked welds, broken suspension parts.
I worked on a Honda Civic years ago that had a weird vibration problem, I found a left rear suspension part snapped in half. the whole time I would have bet good money that the problem was coming from the front so it was desperation and luck that made me look out back.
Your vibration or shaking qualifies as weird, with the amount of miles you have, you have to look closer at your vehicle than you normally would.
if you haven't double check all the lugs nuts on the wheels. and look at the wheels closely look for and cracks or damage.
once you have the car in the air try and move the front upper strut mounts if you get no play jack up the lower control arm slightly and check again.
jack it up just enough to support some of the weight, enough to compress the spring slightly but not enough to lift the car off the jack stand.
also I think I asked earlier, are all four tires wearing evenly? is there any signs of chopping or cupping or weird wear to any of the tires?
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You have ruled out the right side outer CV joint?
http://www.samarins.com/glossary/cv_joint.html
http://www.samarins.com/glossary/cv_joint.html
EaOutlaw
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melsg5 you found a great article that explains CV joints much better than I could.
Reading the article it confirms my suspension about the inner joint possibly being worn,
the symptom described in the article sounds like the OP problem, at least some of the problem.
I suspect he has a couple issues that need diagnosing and some TLC
Again nice find.
Perhaps you could make a Sticky thread showing the link so it will be easier to find for members or visitors wanting to learn a little about their axles and CV joints.
Reading the article it confirms my suspension about the inner joint possibly being worn,
the symptom described in the article sounds like the OP problem, at least some of the problem.
I suspect he has a couple issues that need diagnosing and some TLC
Again nice find.
Perhaps you could make a Sticky thread showing the link so it will be easier to find for members or visitors wanting to learn a little about their axles and CV joints.
I'm going to jack up the vehicle today. My mechanic friend phoned me this morning. He said the same thing you are saying that the left axle probably needs replacing. And that the left side axle will cause the right turn vibration. I'll take pictures and post once I'm done my full inspection.
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EaOutlaw
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I am not convinced you have just one problem, If the engine and transaxle is moving around under hood more than normal this could put the new inner cv joints under more stress than should be considered normal and can damage a new axle boots and joints.
if you replace a axle or both Like I would do purchase new axles not rebuilt.
Napa has them a good price. make sure to remove both axles and bring them with you to pick up the new axles to make sure your getting the right part.
While your in there it is a good time to replace the axle seals. they are also affordable. Before you remove these seals take pictures of them and measure them to insure the parts counter person provides the correct seals.
same goes with the mounts ensure all the mounts are replaced at the same time or shortly after. ( this is provided they are worn collapsed dry rotted and or torn ) do not just replace one mount do them all at the same time.
If you cannot afford to do the mounts and axles at one time because of time or money. makes sure to drive the vehicle carefully avoiding jack rabbit starts sharp turns and basically fast driving, drifting, jumping ramps or and other stunt driving.
just pretend you have a egg taped to the gas pedal to preserve the new axles until all the mounts can be replaced.
this is also a good time to pay close attention to the struts shocks and springs, if these parts are worn it will also put extra stress on the CV joints, tie rod ends and rack.
the point is if your going to keep the car rebuilding the drive line and suspension will make your vehicle handle much better and make all the parts last longer.
But not everyone thinks like I do or has the budget we all wish we had.
So do what you feel is right for your budget and the family you have with you.
EaOutlaw
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you do not have to replace both axles if you only find one joint bad, however if one is bad the other will cause you problems eventually. it helps they are cheap if your doing the work yourself.
When I repaired cars for a living my shop rate cost for axles were more than double than what yours cost at a retail level.
They are so cheap that it doesn't make sense to service the one axle you may want to save.
what matters is your time and budget, if your just trying to solve a problem, do the work piece by piece until your problem is cured.
if your just going to sell the vehicle or trade it in one day soon just do what you need to.
Because none of this preventive work will increase the value.
the axle shouldn't effect the speed sensor code, you have a bad sensor or connection or a lot of rust and or debris built up on the sensor.
So the code will need to be diagnosed starting with a inspection of the electrical connection and the sensor for physical damage or like I said rust, metal shavings etc built up on the sensor. or sensor ring, or severely worn bearings which I think you checked for already.
When I repaired cars for a living my shop rate cost for axles were more than double than what yours cost at a retail level.
They are so cheap that it doesn't make sense to service the one axle you may want to save.
what matters is your time and budget, if your just trying to solve a problem, do the work piece by piece until your problem is cured.
if your just going to sell the vehicle or trade it in one day soon just do what you need to.
Because none of this preventive work will increase the value.
the axle shouldn't effect the speed sensor code, you have a bad sensor or connection or a lot of rust and or debris built up on the sensor.
So the code will need to be diagnosed starting with a inspection of the electrical connection and the sensor for physical damage or like I said rust, metal shavings etc built up on the sensor. or sensor ring, or severely worn bearings which I think you checked for already.
Thank you Thank you Thank you. I found the problem. There is grease everywhere on the driver side axle. There is clunking when I move it by hand. I attached pictures. The black balls on the shop towel is not dirt. It's grease. The only concern I have is there is some metal shavings on the frame. You'll see the shiny spots in the picture. As for the passenger axle, it's dry as a desert. I jacked up the transmission and the engine and there was no tears in the mounts. They held together tight.
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