I do feel resistance. I was concerned that the oil was flowing so heavily out of the cam thrust plate and no oil flowing on any lifter or push rod to rocker. Should I run drill faster and longer and should I see oil ever make it to the rocker area.
Cam Shaft 1974 455
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Looking at other posts with similar questions they don't always see oil. Do you have a pressure gauge?
I have 1 so I will hook it up and look at pressure
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I have got the cam installed and am currently re-assembling and I am wondering if you have any recommendations on what I could use for an open rocker arm cover like something that would be used if I were adjusting the rockers to control the oil slinging.
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You don't adjust Pontiacs with a running engine. If they have the stock bottle neck rocker arm studs the nuts are tightened to 30 ft/lbs.
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They make clip on splash guards or cut open a garbage set of valve covers.
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I purchased a melling spc-7 cam (fn747b) (gm#9779068) and jpp-5614 nornda dual row billet gears and chain kit (fn749d) from Ames and replaced the worn out comp cam that was in my 1974 455 engine. I also put in new lifters. I purchased several other items from Butler to accomplish this task. So I attempted to start this engine a couple of days ago and of course I set engine to tdc and set hei distributor to fire #1 and lots of cranking and distributor movement it started for a short duration but really rough and I could see air being shot back up through the throttle body while running rough (sniper 1) that I used before this Cam and timing chain/gear swap.I used the standard timing (0) position on the Nornda. I was not given any information on the crank timing chain adjustable gear as to advance or retard if used with the spc 7 cam. I am wondering if these parts are compatible with each other. Is it possible the melling cam requires firing order change??
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Nobodies engine will run at 0 advance. You set the damper to 12 degrees before TDC on number 1and then drop the distributor in pointing exactly at 1 in the cap. Also make sure plug wire sequence is correct.
Well that is what I meant to say that I set timing to 12 Degrees and dropped distributor in and 18436572.
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I think I see screw in studs and stock rockers tightened to 25 ft lbs. Also push rod guides. I assumed the previous owner had those screw in studs mounted in there by machine shop. I thought the factory studs were pressed in.
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Yes but are they bottle neck screw in studs? The thread stops about 3/4 the way down and then the stud becomes larger in diameter.
Yes, it is a bottleneck stud I took a picture of it but I can't send it to you on this website. Picture too large it said.
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You were definitely on #1 cylinder when you installed distributor not #6?
I talked to Melling today and they said that SPC-7 was in fact the correct cam for this 1971 455 HO block. I verified several times that intake valve was in compression mode and rotor was pointing at #1 at 12 degrees and it still will not start it fires sometimes. I am reasonably sure I set the changeable timing gear (advance or retard) on crank to 0 as instructed for standard timing and Melling agreed that 0 is correct for this cam.
Is there a chance that I have it wrong on timing gear setting of 0. When the damper is set on 12 degrees and both intake and exhaust valves are shut and rockers can be wiggled a bit. I would hate to disassemble intake and valley and timing chain cover just to see if what I assembled is correct. Is the fact that damper on 12 degrees and valves shut mean the crank and cam are in proper time?
Is there a chance that I have it wrong on timing gear setting of 0. When the damper is set on 12 degrees and both intake and exhaust valves are shut and rockers can be wiggled a bit. I would hate to disassemble intake and valley and timing chain cover just to see if what I assembled is correct. Is the fact that damper on 12 degrees and valves shut mean the crank and cam are in proper time?