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No dash lights, no power to OBD2 port, car wont start

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speedwaytaco160

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Hello

I have a 2000 grand am GT V6. The initial problem was the car didnt start but it had dash lights and everything worked but it didnt start. When I turned over the key I heard a relay clicking on the passenger side fuse panel. I replaced it and it still clicked.

So I decided to try the paper clip trick on the OBD2 port and it sparked and now I have no dash lights whatsoever. I have headlights , tail lights and interior lights. Ive check all the fuses I can think of and still nothing.

Can someone please help me out and point me in the right direction.
 
I just touch the starter solenoid with a screw driver and im getting spark. which fuses / relays tie in with all the dash lights? Im lost
 
what paper clip trick on the OBDII port? You could use a paper clip on OBDI to read codes but not OBDII. What was the initial no start problem, the starter did not engage or the starter engaged but the engine wouldnt ignite? You have checked all fuses both in the engine compartment and passenger compartment?
 
I guess I didnt know the difference from OBD1 and 2. The initial problem was no start. Im not sure if the start engaged or not. it was dark so I decided to do the paper clip trick to see if I could just read the code. Then I got a spark. The starter spins when touched the ends with a screw driver. I checked all the fuses which I believe would relate to the starting issue. now im going to check EVERY fuse on both sides.
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Update. I guess when checking the fuses at night i missed one. the IPC/HVAC BATT 10A fuse was blown. Now the dash lights work but it wont start.
 
what do you mean by wont start, the starter engages and it wont ignite or the starter does not engage?
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I plugged up the scanner, no codes. But still have a check engine light.

the starter doesn't engage period. only way it moves is when I touch the two posts with a screw driver, then it spins but doesnt engage.
 
the OBDII port is powered by the cigarette lighter fuse, is your scanner connecting and shows no codes or your not getting a connection with the scanner? It is strange that the light is on with no codes.
You are sure you dont have a neutral safety switch issue, you have tried moving the shifter back and forth?
You could also have a a bad ignition switch.
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the OBDII port is powered by the cigarette lighter fuse, is your scanner connecting and shows no codes or your not getting a connection with the scanner? It is strange that the light is on with no codes.
You are sure you dont have a neutral safety switch issue, you have tried moving the shifter back and forth?
You could also have a a bad ignition switch.

I have tired moving the shifter back and forth and its not cracking. How would I go about checking the ignition switch? ill check the cigarette fuse once again
** update. The Cigarette fuse in good.
 
Last edited:
I just used a test fuse light on the starter and im not getting the tester to light up. which makes me believe I have a problem with the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. How would I go about testing the two. Thanks
 
see the previous post to systematically go through your problem
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this link is some what more advanced and requires a scan tool, http://www.batauto.com/index.php?topic=9278.0

and another set of tests
First, did you checked for a blown fuse?
Underhood fusebox, "IGN-SW BATT 1", a 40A fuse

Power path:
Battery positive, RED wire to underhood fusebox 40A
Fuse to RED wire to ignition switch
ignition switch to YELLOW wire to underhood fusebox.
There is no relay on this car, they just bypassed it in the fusebox.
Fusebox to YELLOW wire to transmission park neutral switch.
switch to PURPLE wire to starter solenoid

Battery positive to RED wire (BIG one) to starter. Your alternator connect to this point too btw, so don't be surprised to see 2 wires on that starter bolt.

What I would personally do:
- Try to start the car normally. Notice the no start.

- Put transmission on neutral, try to start. If it start then your park neutral switch is defective.

- Confirm that the fuse isn't blew up.

- Try to move the battery wire terminals. you should be unable to move them. Also verify for excessive oxidation at the battery terminals

- With a multimeter, verify that your battery voltage is atleast 12.4V. Even 12.4V is low. If bellow charge the battery.

- Then verify that you do NOT have a third party alarm or remote starter. If you do, then suspect it.
- Many of them have an anti-start feature. For alarm it's to prevent theif, for remote it's to prevent starter grinding (as in try to start a car that is already running)
- If no anti-start feature, but remote starter, they actually need to tap on the wire. They are supposed to avoid cutting, but just strip and solder. Sadly, many place just cut and twist.
- If they do, verify that the relay they used is fine and no wiring issue. The usual wiring place is just behind the ignition key, beside the radio. They often break some plastic to reach the wires.

- Then I'ld go at the starter with a multimeter or a test light
- Verify that from ground to the big wire you do have 12V
- Verify that when you turn the key to start (helper needed) that you do have power to the smaller wire
- If you do not have power on the big wire, you have issue there. This big wire is the main power wire.
- If you do not have power on start position on the smaller wire, you need to check at the transmission... This smaller wire is the "control" wire.
- You can confirm that the starter is working by shorting the big wire with the small wire. it should cause the starter to engage. BE SURE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS ON PARK OR YOU COULD GET KILLED. Remember, doing this could cause the engine to start, and you bypassed the interlock safety!

- If no power on small wire, check the transmission park neutral switch. It should have 2 wires: yellow and pink, check yellow.
- If no power on yellow at start position... then the problem is between this point and the ignition switch, probably a third party anti-theif module that you missed.
 
Ive placed the car in neutral with no start.

Which fuse are you talking about?

wire terminals are solid with no movement. also cleaned them.

Brand new battery with 12 volts plus.

With the tester light im getting power to the big wire on the starter,
I am NOT getting power to the smaller wire on the starter.

When you say check the wire on the trans mission which wire, where? Ive checked online and i cant fine the NSS or the wire you speak up.

It feels like im getting a click from the ABS relay under the hood
 
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